Japanese gold repair, better known by its proper name of kintsugi, mends broken ceramics with seams of gold so that the damage becomes the most beautiful thing about the piece. Plenty has been written about the philosophy (some of it by us), but this article is about the doing. If you have searched for how to repair ceramics with gold and found mostly history lessons, consider this the missing masterclass: the materials, the step-by-step technique, controlling the thickness of your golden veins, and the honest limits of a mended piece.
First, the one paragraph of history, as promised. Kintsugi is the Japanese art of repairing broken ceramics with gold. It has its origins in 15th century Japan as the working expression of wabi-sabi, the principle of embracing imperfection, and rather than disguising a crack it turns the crack into the story of the piece. That is the philosophy in full; everything from here on is technique.
What do you need for repairing ceramics with gold?
Two materials do all the work, and understanding them makes you a better mender.
The adhesive. Traditional kintsugi uses urushi lacquer, which cures slowly and demands real expertise. Modern kintsugi, including our Kintsugi Repair Kit, replaces the lacquer with a two-part epoxy resin. Its trick is that nothing happens until part A meets part B: kept apart, the tubes wait patiently, and once mixed they begin curing into a very strong, solid bond. That chemistry gives you control over your working time, and the whole method below is built around it.
The gold. The gold in modern Japanese pottery repair is a gold-effect powder, in our kit a premium gold mica pigment, the same family of mineral pigment used in fine cosmetics and art materials. Mixed into the epoxy it turns the glue itself gold, so the vein runs through the join rather than sitting on top of it. One rule matters above all others: the pigment is very strong, so you only need a small scoop. Adding too much can affect the strength of the glue, and a weak join dressed in gold is still a weak join.
Beyond those two, you want a mixing card with marked circles for measuring equal parts, a plastic spreader (easier to control with epoxy than a paintbrush), gloves, and something unloved to practise on.
How do you repair ceramics with gold, step by step?
Step one: plan before any glue appears
Assemble the dry pieces in your hand so you understand how they fit together and the best order to join them, starting from the largest piece, then lay them out on the table in that order. Check every broken edge is clean and completely dry, because dust or grease will quietly sabotage the bond. Then open a window (epoxy needs a properly ventilated workspace) and put the gloves on.
Step two: mix your gold glue in small batches
Fill one of the part A circles on the mixing card, scoop in a small amount of gold powder and mix well. Doing this before part B arrives means you can take your time; nothing is setting yet. Then fill the next circle with an equal measure of part B and mix the two glues thoroughly. This is the most important moment in the craft: epoxy only cures hard when the parts are combined in roughly equal amounts and stirred until fully mixed, and an uneven mix is the number one cause of glue that never sets.
From the moment the parts meet, the clock is running, so keep your batches small. If the glue on the card is setting before you have joined your second or third piece, you are mixing too much at once; reduce the amount next time. The technique is many small mixes, not one heroic one.
Step three: spread, press and hold
Using the spreader, lay a line of gold glue evenly along the first broken edge. You are aiming for just enough that a little squeezes out when the pieces meet. Press the two pieces together and hold them firmly for 30 to 60 seconds, depending on the size of the section. The glue is strong but it is not an instant-grab adhesive, so the hold matters: a join not held for long enough is a join that comes apart later. Carry on until the batch is used up or has set, then mix a fresh one and continue until the piece is whole.
Step four: walk away for 24 hours
Once assembled, leave the piece alone for a full 24 hours so the glue can set completely. There is no kiln and no oven in modern gold mending. The only heat involved is the cup of tea you make while resisting the urge to poke it.
How do you control the thickness of the gold veins?
The gold line is yours to design, and the control comes from how much glue you put on the edge. A generous line squeezes out into a bold, dramatic vein; a sparing layer keeps the seam fine and delicate. If more oozes out than you intended, do not panic, it sets solid and still looks great. Wipe away excess promptly and go thinner on the next join if you prefer restraint.
There is a second trick for making a seam sing: while a join is still slightly tacky, brush a little of the gold-effect powder directly along it to highlight the repair. If the seam has already set, run a fine extra line of adhesive along the join first and brush the powder over that. Celebrating the crack is the whole point, so gild as boldly as you like.
Does Japanese gold repair work on glass, metal and wood?
Japanese ceramic repair earns its name, because the epoxy works best with ceramics, but it will also bond metals, plastic, wood and glass. Glass deserves two caveats: because most glass is transparent, the gold seam reads differently than on opaque ceramic, and you should plan the reassembly before any glue is mixed, taking real care with exposed shards and sharp edges.
Is Japanese gold repair safe to do at home?
Yes, with the respect a strong adhesive deserves. The glue is powerful, which is exactly why the repairs hold, and it comes with rules worth following to the letter. Work in a well-ventilated area. Wear the gloves and eye protection, because the adhesive can bond skin and eyes in seconds, and always direct the tube away from your face and body when opening it. Keep it away from heat, sparks and open flames (it is highly flammable) and well out of reach of children. This is an adults-only craft; read the full safety notices in the booklet before you start.
What can a gold-mended piece be used for afterwards?
Honesty time. A piece mended with epoxy becomes a decorative object. The adhesive is not food grade, so a repaired bowl should not touch food or drink. The repair is not waterproof and the piece is not guaranteed watertight, so it is not the technique for a vase you plan to keep filling. The dishwasher and microwave are permanently off the menu; hand dust it instead.
There is one glorious exception: tea lights. A mended bowl makes a perfect home for tea lights and candles, all of the golden beauty with none of the food contact.
And before you attempt anything precious, practise. Our Kintsugi Repair Kit includes two small china bowls for exactly this: wrap one in several layers of the cotton fabric provided, break it against a hard surface in a single movement using the minimum force needed (a stone floor works well), and learn on the few large, clean pieces that result. Your first join will teach you more than any article, including this one.
Japanese gold repair FAQs
Is there a special gold glue for ceramics?
Not a single magic tube, no. What people search for as Japanese gold mending glue for ceramics is really two things working together: a two-part epoxy adhesive and a gold mica pigment mixed into it. The epoxy is the bond, the pigment is the gold.
Why isn't my epoxy setting?
Almost always the mix. Two-part epoxy only cures when parts A and B are combined in roughly equal amounts and stirred thoroughly. Check that the broken edges were clean and dry, too.
Why won't the gold powder stick to the seam?
Powder needs something to hold onto. Brush it on while the seam is still slightly tacky, or run a fine extra line of adhesive along the set join first and brush the powder over that.
Do repaired pieces need to be fired in a kiln?
No kiln, no oven, no firing. The repair simply needs to be left alone while the glue cures fully, and then it is done.
How strong is the finished repair?
The glue itself is very strong, but strength has its context: a mended piece is best enjoyed as decor rather than daily crockery. During the repair, hold each newly joined piece for 30 to 60 seconds before moving on.
Where can I get help mid-repair?
Our Help Hut kintsugi guide troubleshoots the lot, from glue that will not set to gold that will not behave.
Ready to try Japanese gold repair for yourself? The Sandy Leaf Farm Kintsugi Repair Kit has the gold glue, premium pigment and practice bowls waiting.
